In an exclusive two-part series, BizTech Times traces the history of embroidery and later speaks to Roselin Yusof, a self-taught artist on her journey and inspirations in embroidery.

Embroidery is the craft of decorating fabric or other materials using a needle to apply thread or yarn. The word embroidery comes from the French word ‘broderie’ which means embellishment. It adds a decorative element to quilts, garments and accessories. A hand-embroidered work is artistic and personal, making it a source of pride to the embroiderer. The process requires investment of time and heart. Depending on the skills of the person with the needle, embroidery can result in a lifelike piece of art that will make a unique display to be enjoyed by all.

History of Embroidery

The tradition of embroidery can be traced back to China and the Near East. Early embroidery was found in Cro-Magnon days or 30,000 B.C. Archaeological findings from this time reveal fossilized remains of heavily hand-stitched and decorated clothing. Ancient Chinese embroideries date from the Tang dynasty 618–907 C.E. In Sweden, the earliest finds of embroidery are from the Viking Age. The practice of embroidery began to rise in Europe with the growth of the Christian church and monarchy empires. Richly decorated garments and ornaments in the form of wall hangings and tablecloths were commissioned to display power and wealth.

Embroidery Across Nation

Embroidery in Ukraine is an ancient tradition dating back to the age of the Crimean Tatars. The designs may vary across different villages in Ukraine, but they are known for geometric and floral designs on embroidered clothing and household linens. In Palestine, cross-stitching is the most common type of embroidery and crafters typically apply floral and geometric designs on clothing. In Tunisia, embroidery comes in elaborate designs with l gemstones and sequins added. The designs can be simple yet a certain stitch apparently tells personal information about the wearer. In India, every region has a distinctive style depending on which state the materials are sourced. The fabrics used are also embellished by stories of the community, with motifs about natural surroundings and religious inscriptions.

Embroidery in Malaysia

Source: Department of National Heritage

One of the famous embroideries that has also become a cultural heritage for Malaysia is called Tekat or Bersuji. The early development of tekat can be traced to the beginning of the 15th century, during the reign of the Melaka Sultanate. There are several types of tekat and among them are tekat emas, tekat gubah and tekat perada. It is a technique of decorating textile panels (usually velvet) with thickly applied thread decoration. The motifs are always about flora, fauna, geometrics, and arabesque.

The origin and development of tekat can be attributed to the use of clothing and equipment by the royalty. Within the royal family, tekat can be used to decorate clothes and household items such as curtains, cushions, tablecloths, and bedsheets. It is also used on ceremonial items for weddings, engagements, births, and other important events.

Although embroidery has a long and worldly history dated from thousands of years ago, this art is slowly diminishing as we enter the 21st century. Many shy away from hand embroidery as it requires investment of time, patience, and determination to realize one single artwork. Thanks to the global COVID-19 pandemic that has forced many of us to stay at home, embroidery has since received renewed interest as Malaysians turned to such art and craft activities. Hopefully, hand embroidery will find a new lease of life to flourish again.

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