MUKAH — Songket weaving in Sarawak is known for its uniqueness, which differs from songket that are produced in the east coast states in the peninsula, as it uses the hidden thread technique in its production process. This means the songket can be worn either side.
The most well-known Sarawak songket is called Songket Rajang which comes from Kampung Rajang, Belawai and is much sought after even though it could cost up to RM12,000 per piece.
The production of this songket, woven using special yarn from Terengganu, was a dying industry in the 1960s due to the difficulty in obtaining the yarn because of its relatively high price.
Rajang Songket Weaving Group chairman, Saanah Suhaili, 65, said at that time, her mother and three friends, who were the four songket weaving leaders then, stopped weaving for a long time until the Sarawak Economic Development Corporation (SEDC) team entered the fray in 1989.
“SEDC then urged residents to revive the songket-making industry and seek new weavers. At that time, I was not interested, but my mother and older sister encouraged me to give it a shot,” said Saanah when met by Bernama at the weaving centre, which is more than an hour’s journey from Sibu.
Saanah, who was awarded “Outstanding Sarawak Songket Weaver” by Kraftangan Malaysia in 2014 said the Rajang Songket Weaving Group was established in April 1991 with 19 members who were provided training by the SEDC.
In 2003, the then state Tourism Minister Datuk Abang Johari Tun Openg, who is now Sarawak’s Chief Minister, allocated RM500,000 to promote Sarawak’s songket at the new Sarawak Songket Weaving Centre building in Kampung Rajang.
“The weaving industry could (finally) breathe again and at the same time it also received assistance from Kraftangan Malaysia in training and sales promotions. Songket-weaving courses were also held,” said Saanah who possesses 31 years of experience in the field of weaving.
Meanwhile, Awangko Hamdan Pengiran Arshad, who had served at SEDC and was among the individuals responsible for persuading residents of Kampung Rajang to resume the activity, said he was proud to see the progress and popularity of songket.
Awangko, a lecturer at the Faculty of Applied and Creative Arts, Universiti Malaysia Sarawak (UNIMAS), who also conducted a study on Sarawak songket, said at that time SEDC was serious about reviving the dying arts, one of which was the Sarawak songket by providing courses, guidance and marketing assistance.
“On the marketing aspect, we helped by taking this songket and marketing it in Kuching. At the time, this was the best way to promote the songket to dignitaries because they had the purchasing power and over time, we saw weavers getting back into their own rhythm,” he said.
However, if in the past, production of this songket had stopped due to difficulties in obtaining the required materials, now Sanaah and Awangko are a little upset that it may stop again, as not many young people are interested in learning the art with only eight weavers, aged 40 to 73, left at the centre.
Meanwhile, Dayang Norsalam Pengiran Parsih, 78, who was appointed “Adiguru Kraf Songket Sarawak’’ in 1995, said she was aware of the situation and thought it was probably because young people found weaving a tiring job.
Dayang Norsalam used to be a songket instructor and her expertise in the art was sought after in the country and abroad.
“Maybe, if Sarawak songket weaving gets international recognition, more young people will be interested. Now that many weavers are old, I really hope the younger generation will not forget this legacy,” she said when met at her house in Kampung Rajang.
The Sarawak government had also stated its intention to nominate the Sarawak songket in the list of the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation’s (UNESCO) Intangible Cultural Heritage (ICH).
— BERNAMA
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